Florida's Own Galapagos Island
Florida's Endangered Scrub Lands, Home to Rare Inhabitants
Sep 28, 2009
Mark Deyrup, biological researcher at Archbold Biological Station in Lake Placid, FL, has studied the Lake Wales Ridge area for about 24 years. He realizes that the arid scrub is not much to look at, but added, “Like some people, the scrub’s beauty is hidden on the inside.”
Similar to the Galapagos Islands off the coast of Ecuador, this high ridge, like a backbone down Florida’s peninsula, was isolated, surrounded by ocean. Harsh environments at both locations make each day a struggle for survival. And both areas are home to a vast array of unique and endangered plant and animal species.
Dozens of endangered plants, bugs, and animals call the Lake Wales Ridge home, making it the largest collection of endangered species in the United States. The region is relatively small, covering approximately 150 miles along the state highway 27 corridor across five counties in Central Florida.
History Reflects Adaptive Nature
This arid habitat dates back to the Pleistocene era. This era extended from two million years ago to about 100,000 years ago, and is known as the last ice age, a time when mammoths walked the earth and rapid changes in wind and weather patterns caused global cooling. Studies of this time period are providing pertinent data for understanding today’s global warming concerns.
The Lake Wales Ridge territory has much information to contribute about adaptation and survival. “Scrub would fare better than most in global warming,” Deyrup said.
When the waters rose and covered most of Florida more than 100,000 years ago, species trapped on the sand ridges either came from desert environments via land bridges from Mexico or adapted on the spot. The thorny Florida ziziphus, short leaved rosemary, beargrass and scrub plum appear scraggly above ground. Beneath, they developed a rich, multi-layered root system that scientists have barely begun to explore. “We believe it is a complex cooperative between plants and fungi,” Deyrup said.
Plants growing in the nutrition poor ‘sugar sand’ form symbiotic associations with fungi (mycorrhizae), which extract nutrients from decomposing organic matter. The extensive root system also supports regrowth, a necessary part of life in Florida, the lightning capital of the world. The scrub flourishes and restores itself through fire.
The creatures of the area go underground as well. The gopher turtle, nicknamed the landlord, digs burrows up to 30 feet long. There, not only he lives, but also more than 300 other creatures survive in his tunnels. If the gopher turtle disappears, and his numbers are decreasing along with the acres of scrub, all of his tenants will die as well.
These unique plants, animals, and insects, such as the burrowing roach, can be found nowhere else. Nowhere. Even the scrub jay, a sassy 10-inch long blue and gray cousin to the North American blue jay, can exist only on this shrinking spit of land. Citrus groves, land development and entertainment venues continue to nibble away at his rare little world. Almost eighty-five percent has already been developed or destroyed.
Miniature Landscape
The best way to view the scrub garden is from the vantage point of a gopher turtle. The terrain transforms into an elfin landscape, a miniature forest filled with exquisite, rare beauty. The short-leaved rosemary blooms profusely. The ziziphus now looks tenacious and to be admired as one of the rarest shrubs in North America. “Some things you need to look at with educated eyes to see the beauty,” Dayrup explained.
One of many paradoxes of this desert – it receives approximately 50 inches of rain a year. The well-drained sandy soil provides much needed filtration for the limestone aquifer beneath the Florida peninsula. In turn, the aquifer provides fresh water for Florida’s ever-increasing human population. As the sandhill scrub disappears, so does the filtration system and the waters are diverted, diminishing the fresh water supply.
Archbold Biological Station
The Lake Wales Ridge ecosystem conjures up images of Dr. Seuss’s microscopic Whos living in a world the size of a speck of dust, and Horton who protected them. Explorer Richard Archbold, a kind of Horton, founded the Archbold Biological Station, near Lake Placid in Highlands County in 1941. He spent the next 35 years preserving and researching the area. He provided a place for Deyrup and other biologists to study.
For awhile Deyrup said they thought Archbold Biological Station would protect the only remaining area of scrub. But interest in preserving this unique land and its endangered plants and animals grew. Legislation was passed and a group of organizations came together to create other preserves. “Now scrub is a hot topic,” Deyrup said.
Where to Visit
Historic Bok Sanctuary’s endangered garden and Pine Ridge trail are perfect spots to explore. The three-quarters mile trail is a manageable walk with fifteen points of interest and several shaded benches to accommodate rest stops.
In Southeast Polk County, the Lake Wales Ridge State Forest offers several hiking trails. Just north of the state forest is Tiger Creek Preserve with a variety of habitats to view. Contact the Nature conservancy for information and a list of what to see at various times of the year.
The Archbold Biological Station maintains hiking trails and a well-stocked library in their facility in southern Highlands County. Call ahead to make arrangements.
Like the Galapagos Islands, the Lake Wales Region’s worst enemy and also its best friend are human. As Deyrup said a little education can help us see the beauty.
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